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WARNING! Computer parts are easily damaged by electrostatic shock. It's easy to avoid static build-up by not doing computer repairs on wall-to-wall carpeting or other static-rich environments. Wear cotton, not synthetics or wool clothing, while doing computer work. Last, but most importantly, remember to frequently touch the power supply unit in the computer case to rid yourself of static electricity. As an extra safety precaution, you might want to use anti-static bracelets, found at any electronics shop.
Assembly Instructions
Click here to see the first installment of Computer Homebrew.
Chassis Assembly:
After you've made sure you have everything you need (including a small Phillips screwdriver), you can start building your new computer. The first thing to do is to open the chassis and prepare it so that you can install all the components. To open an ATX chassis, reach under the front, grab the handle and pull the front panel forward. When the front is gone, slide the top lid forwards and then lift it up to open the case. If you're using an AT chassis, you'll need to unscrew some screws on the back of the case and then slide the top backwards before you can lift it from the computer. Make sure that the 110V/230V switch on the back of your power supply is set correctly for your region.
With your new chassis, you'll find an assortment of small screws. There are several different types of screws, some for securing cards, others for drives, motherboards, etc. If you use the wrong kind of screw in the wrong place, you could damage the equipment. Check carefully to see what type of screw is needed and don't use too much force: sooner than you think, you'll need to unscrew something, anyway. If you're using a used chassis, you might want to buy new screws and (carefully) vacuum the interior of the case (especially the power supply and fan which will be full of dust and crud).
Motherboard:
This is the ATX card that I used. On ATX cards, all the I/O connectors are soldered onto the motherboard. On the top right on this picture, you can see
the connectors. The long slots on the far left side of the board are the ISA
slots (older, slower slots used for modems, cheap sound cards, etc.). The white slots, next to the ISAs are the PCI slots (newer standard for faster sound cards and slow video cards) the next slot to the right is the AGP (Accelerated Graphics Port, for fast graphics cards). The big white rectangle is the ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) Super7 slot where the computer processor goes. Beneath the processor are the SIMM slots where you put in the memory modules. Beneath this are the two IDE connectors and the single disk drive connector. To the left of the ZIF socket is the ATX power connector.
Before installing the board into the chassis, you have to configure your motherboard for your processor and install the parts that go directly onto the motherboard (processor, memory and cooling fan). On some motherboards, you have to set jumpers, on other boards, you can use a program like softmenu to set the switches. Other boards have DIP switches. Read through your motherboard documentation several times before setting the switches. Usually the documentation contains a table with precise configuration for specific processors, as well as info on how to calculate the settings yourself. Set the jumpers for your processor and double check that you have them set correctly. If there's no specific info on your processor of choice, or you have no manual, check out the manufacturers homepage. Often you can email them for support. If the settings are wrong, you could fry the processor. The motherboard is a fragile piece of hardware, so remember the danger of static electricity and handle the board accordingly.
Memory Modules:
Check out the section of your motherboard's manual that often goes under the funky name "memory population rules" (or something similar). Here you can read about how to add RAM to your motherboard. If you're using PC-100 DIMM, you only have to add one memory module.
The modules are keyed so that they can't be placed the wrong way into the slot on the motherboard. The modern DIMM modules are easy to install -- just open the clips on the side and gently push down the card into the slot until the small clips on the holder snap the module into place. For older SIMMs, you need to put them into the slot at a 45 degrees angle and then turn them up so that they snap into place. Be sure to check that the module is inserted the right way...and don't use too much force.
The Processor:
The next step is to install the processor. This is an easy operation, just make sure to get rid of excess static before handling it. Lift the ZIF socket lever (the metal thingy at the left side of the socket on the picture above). You have to push the lever out somewhat from the socket to release it. When the lever is lifted completely, you should have no problem putting the processor into its socket. In order to orient the processor correctly, there's a cut edge or a white dot in one of the corners. This mark should be on top of a similar mark on the socket itself. The CPU will fall into place fairly easily if inserted correctly. Press the socket lever back down and the installation is complete.
Today's processors get very hot. To be able to run properly, they have to be constantly cooled by a processor fan. Check the processor manufacturer's homepage for details on which fans they recommend or ask at your local computer store. On the fan, there should be a heat sink (the heat sink is often sold already fastened to the cooling block). It's basically an easy process to attach the fan to the CPU. The fan goes on the processor, the spring on the socket hatch is fastened and the lever on the other side is fastened to the cooling block. You might also want to use a heat sink compound, but if you have a big enough fan, it isn't always necessary. Ask your dealer what fan is recommended, or check the manufacturer's Web page for a list of recommended cooling solutions.
Now it's time to install the motherboard into the chassis. The ports on the back of the ATX board protrude through an opening in the back of the chassis.
Select the cover plate that fits the connectors on your motherboard. In the steel frame of the chassis, there are holes where you can place spacers (plastic or metal) that keep the circuit board from coming into contact with the door. In some chassii, the spacers have been factory installed. Hold the board above the plate and check if the spacers are aligned properly. (On a few of the spacers, there are hooks, and on others, there are holes for screws.) Slide the board (without damaging its fragile surface) into the hooks and the back slot. Fasten the board with screws. Don't screw too tight! You want just enough bite to make the board stay in place.
The next step is to connect power to the mainboard. Locate the ATX motherboard
contact -- it's the biggest contact in the bundle of cables that come from the
power supply. It can only be connected one way to the power socket on the motherboard. Then connect one of the ordinary 4-pin cables to the processor fan. The CPU fan power cable is often a pass-through connector so that you can also connect the power supply to another device. Some processor fans have small connectors and are connected to a power outlet on the motherboard itself. Check your motherboard manual for details. If you have an AT board, it's a bit harder to connect power (again, RTFM!).
The case speaker, power switch, reset button and case LEDs need to be connected to the motherboard as well. Connect the thin cables that come from the front of the case to the corresponding pins on the motherboard. Check your motherboard manual to learn which connector does what. LED lights only work if connected one way to power. You may need to reverse them if they don't work at first.
Go to Part Two, Page Two.
Click here to see the first installment of Computer Homebrew.
DISCLAIMER: Street Tech is not responsible for any damage or injury caused by the application of the material printed here. This information is for educational purposes only and we make no claims about its accuracy.
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